February 28, 2013

Maine company among those riding 'modernist' cooking wave

The Associated Press

Milk, eggs, cheese, tomatoes, transglutaminase, sodium citrate...

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Some of the more than 300 products sold by Modernist Pantry in quantities tailored to the home kitchen.

AP

Modernist Pantry co-owners Christopher Anderson and Janie Wang at their home in Eliot. Anderson, a software developer by trade, launched Modernist Pantry with Wang two years ago when he couldn't find the ingredients needed for his culinary dabbling.

AP

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It may not sound like the last grocery list you wrote, but the growing appeal of so-called modernist cooking — a science-tastic take on haute cuisine — has more home cooks adding laboratory-worthy ingredients and gizmos to their shopping. And that, of course, has spawned a mini-niche of online companies selling everything you need to play culinary alchemist at home.

At least a half-dozen companies now sell once-elusive ingredients like sodium citrate to emulsify cheeses into creamy sauces, "popping sugar" that explodes in your mouth, and "meat glue" — transglutaminase — to create dishes like tilapia spaghetti (that is, "spaghetti" made from tilapia). Alongside traditional equipment like cookie sheets and hand mixers, you can purchase pipettes to create "caviar" from various liquids or smoke torches that infuse smoke flavor into dishes without heating them up.

Even big retailers are getting in on the action. Williams-Sonoma carries machines known as "sous vide," which cook using a warm water bath. Amazon offers ingredients such as agar agar (to make gelatins) and xanthan gum (to thicken sauces), as well as whipping siphons to create foams and digital scales that allow the home chef to weigh down to the hundredth of a gram. How's that for precision cooking?

Some of these sites exist solely to service your inner Ferran Adria, the Spanish chef hailed as the father of modernist cooking. Chris Anderson, a software developer by trade, launched Modernist Pantry with his wife two years ago when he couldn't find the ingredients needed for his culinary dabbling. Today, Modernist Pantry carries more than 300 ingredients in quantities tailored to the home kitchen, as well as equipment. The site draws 60 percent of its business from home cooks, Anderson says, and sales have increased 10 times since launching.

"We sort of just did it initially thinking it was not going to be a full-time business, just a little thing on the side," he says from the company's base in York, Maine. "But within two months we were getting more business than we anticipated. We were doubling our sales every month." He went full time a year ago, and today employs three people.

Montreal-based Molecule-R offers do-it-yourself kits for the modernist weekend warrior. Each of the company's three kits contains recipes, pre-measured sachets of the required additives and the equipment to create the recipes. The first kit hit the market in 2009, says business development executive Jennifer MacDonald, and sales since then have at least doubled. Roughly 80 percent of the customers are home cooks, she says, and they range from children to seniors.

"We get families, no joke," she says. "We get a lot of people writing us and saying they did the arugula spaghetti with their kids. It ranges from children with their parents to people in their 60s doing it."

Experimenting with modernist cuisine, sometimes called molecular gastronomy, is the next step in the country's love affair with cooking. In the same way that home cooks emulate what they see on the Food Network, many want to replicate the gels and foams they taste at elite restaurants like Chicago's Alinea and New York's WD-50. Aided by cookbooks such as "Modernist Cuisine at Home," the definitive guide that was published last year, many accomplished home cooks have gained the confidence and incentive to kick their basic skills up a notch.

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Additional Photos

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Flavor spheres created by Modernist Pantry co-owners Christopher Anderson and Janie Wang using their spherification equipment.

AP

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Gelatin sheets of different grades are sold by Eliot-based Modernist Pantry.

AP

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Colorful product labels frame shipper John McWilliams of Kittery at the Modernist Pantry warehouse in Eliot.

AP



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